Tailored Closet: Hand Pick Stitch

Since the introduction of my tailoring lifestyle brand – a brand which one of its main aims is to assist and nurture a younger generation through the navigation of the tailoring industry as well as flourish their appreciation of the fine and impeccable art of the industry in a contemporary manner; I remain inspired to use my platform as an avenue to educate you on the custom details in suiting and to equip you with the unique finishing touches that will elevate your chosen custom made garment giving you key takes on expressing a tailored jacket.


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Hand Pickstitch

Today, our main focus is pick stitching also known as stab stitch or external piping. The phrase ‘pick stitch’ is commonly used however it is also heavily/typically misunderstood and neglected by the average gentleman despite the fact that it is one of the finer parts of tailoring which has made its way into the ready to wear ‘industry’/segment.

When you are blessed with the opportunity to experience our consultation appointment, be it for a custom suit, jacket or coat, the likeliness is that you will be offered the choice of handmade make pick stitch ‘finishing touch’. On that note, a pick stitch describes a simple, tiny and unobtrusive running stitch that catches just a couple threads of the jacket cloth; running across the jacket collar to the lapel and sometimes the pocket flaps and breast pocket.


Machine Pickstitch

Machine Pickstitch

Handcrafted, it is a highly tasking skill requiring a considerable amount of man hours to achieve. It is beautified by the uneven length and alignment of each adjacent stitch – showcasing true handwork. Most importantly, its hardly visible due to the skill and precision put into it. While machine pick stitching is achieved using the specially designed AMF hand stitch machine.

This option is used by ready to wear brands due to it being less expensive and less time consuming. However, its more visible and stitches tend to be equal. Personally, I only opt for the machine option when I want add a different touch to an overcoat, particularly my polo coat as seen in the polo coat.

So to the take-home message for today is; when you are looking for a trademark on your jacket to insinuate a finely custom hand finished garment, hand pick stitching is something you should strongly consider.

Your Favourite Stylist,
Yinka Jermaine

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